I have a set of what i think is 1975 351w heads. The numbers I found are D5AZ - 6049 - B3 4E13 9902-6049. I have looked arround on the net for about a hour or so and can not find any info. Any help would be appreciated
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I have a set of what i think is 1975 351w heads. The numbers I found are D5AZ - 6049 - B3 4E13 9902-6049. I have looked arround on the net for about a hour or so and can not find any info. Any help would be appreciated
Well,the D5 means 1975, but the rest...???
i wanted to know valve
size combustion chamber size
Okay, the D5 is 1975. A means Galaxie, Z is Ford service parts (replacements?). 6049 is the number for all heads. B is 351-2V. They'll be small port, big chamber heads. Nothing to get excited about, but they will work for mild street use.
so you dont know anything about valve size and combustion chamber? Should i get these shaved down a little. I was looking for something that had 184 154 valves and 60.9 cc combustion chambers. That is what i was told they were over the phone when i ordered them. But im not too sure about this now.
Sounds a bit small on the cc's. It just doesn't mesh with what FoMoCo did during those years (to me anyway...these ford guys here can straighten me out) You can still get great production out of these things with some TLC and elbow grease. Valving, bowl work etc.
1.782 Intake ( actual spec for replacement valves )
1.461 Exhaust ( Actual spec for replacement valves )
cannot verify CC's but for $20 Jegs sells an economy cc kit.
humm those heads sound like a waste of money. I had good heads on my car. I dunno what to do.
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge, they make them for 351 Windsors. just be prepared, there gonna cost.Quote:
Originally Posted by zackmx
could port the heads, and have them cut for bigger valves, but, it's gonna cost.
The first thing I would do is post exactly what you are planning on doing ,is this just info for a stock replacement or a performance application?
What heads were on the motor?
The more info you give ,then more specific answers can be given.
I got a 670 street avenger rv cam. Long tube hedders. Built c4. 4:11's Preformer intake. I was doin a budget buildup. I thought i was getting d00e heads. I dunno what to do to these heads. I was thinkin of shavein them 40thou. what else i can do for cheap i dontknow. How much would bigger valves be?
Home porting can be done cheap,a book and a few bits and your on your way!!!Shaving the heads you have to be aware that the intake may no longer seal correctly,I am not sure at what amount this starts to happen?
Do the new heads have the same size chambers as the old heads ?
If the guy lied to you about what the heads were, why don't you just go get your money back and get the heads you want??? The smoggers you have now aren't worth sticking much money in IMO....
There are many ok, fair and even good OEM heads available. Unfortunately, these that you have are not. 351cid D0OE-C/G, GT40Ps from Expolrer's and Expeditions to name a couple are pretty good. Then you get into a bazillion or so after market iron and aluminum heads that start fairly inexpensively and go up from there. It all depends on what you want to do with the car in the end and how many $$ you have to get to that point.:HMMM: :3dSMILE:
A question, Dave... What years Explorer's have the GT40P's???? Could always use an extra set of Windsor heads and the weather is almost nice enough to go do a bit of junk yarding!!!! Wouldn't mind finding a set....Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Yep, the D0OE's and C9OE's are the ones to get. I have half a dozen C9OE's and they perform great.
I looked for gt40p heads called every wrecker in manitoba. Asked ford they want about as much as aluminum heads from any other place. I also asked them if they had any D00E heads nothing anywhere.
Im not sure how ford product info works but I asked for replacement heads for a 69 to 74 windsor would they give me heads that had less performance for that.
I checked the aftermarket iron heads and the only ones that can be got arround here are roush heads that are about 800 a piece. I dont really buy things from ebay or know how or trust that it would even get here before summer is over. So im not too sure what to do.
as for the combustion chambers size i was hopeing someone here could help me out with that. The heads i have now have 69cc chambers and 178 145
Dave,Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
They started installing them on Explorers in '97 and ran thru the 5.0L run in that SUV. And I missed a complete pair at $50 a couple of years ago.
Weather getting good? Snow is being predicted for the Great Northeast tomorrow and Thursday. And I have my '31 to paint this month while my wife will be in England. Lotsa luck.
Thanks Dave, going to go looking for a set of the GT40P's....Probably not today though, it's snowing again!!!! Doesn't look like a good day at all for going scrounging!!!!
A little spring snow stopping a junk (oops, recycling) yard tour???:LOL: :whacked:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Yup.... Doesn't take much at all anymore to convince me to just stay home and work in the shop.....:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Oh well - we're getting it shipped in from the Mid West tonight and tomorrow and hope it isn't too much to stop me from going to a swap meet this weekend. Maybe the GT40s will still be available. Now, off to work on the carQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Huh got the heads today. They have DOOE cast into them. and the valves are 1.84 1.54 so this must mean the combustion chamber is 60.9?
Anyways one of the heads had C90Z-6049 ARS written on the end of it in a sharpie. anyone know what that means
Also the heads had green paint on them and appeared to be brand new. New Valves springs rockers. The springs has a yellow paint marker stripe on them. I dunno if this has anythin to do with anything. ?? But these heads are the good ones right?
I was thinkin they might be nos heads?
C90Z should actually be C90E for '69-'80 351W heads.Quote:
Originally Posted by zackmx
6049 is the base Ford part number for cylinder heads
D0OE should have a suffix C or G
The chamber size is +/-60cc
They may be factory service heads
They Sound good to me - but before you use them check in the exhaust port for an EGR hump that some of them have. If it's there, it should be ground down to follow the exhaust runner shape for better flow. Don't worry about the EGR hole after grinding as it will not make any difference and will eventually fill with carbon.
that hump is on the top of the chamber? How much power will it rob?
It would depend on several factors such as carburetion, camshaft, and so on. Let's just say you can get a 'seat of the pants' increase. Hp wise, there is some. Economy wise, ditto. Total numbers - not measureable without a before and after dyno run.
What it boils down to is ease of engine breathing which is efficiancy.
well would it be worth doing it if i had a rv cam long tube hedders 670 street avenger electric fan "i dunno if that really does anything" and if im donna do it do i have to take out the valves?
Bottom of link you will see head info .
http://www.mustangii.net/head.asp
It's worth some Hp and efficiancy - but like I said, without a before and after dyno test - who knows. 5, 10 or....??Quote:
Originally Posted by zackmx
You should disassemble the heads - you scatter metal chips all over everthing in sight when you grind.
While you have the heads apart, you might as well install 3/8" screw in rocker studs. Easy job - pull out the OEM press in studs, tap with qualitynew and sharp 7/16" taps, starting with a taper and finishing with a plug or bottoming tap(the stud hole is already the right size), then screw in place with some Loc-Tite.
whats so good about 3/8 studs other than they are bigger? And do roller rockers alone do anything at all? like how much hp on a bone stock motor. JW cause my friend got some from a swap meet and he wont shut up about how cool they are and look and stuff.
Nothing was said about roller rockers though they are a positive add on to any engine and particulaly Ford as the rail type rocker tend to cause valve guide wear with other than stock camshafts. They look nice and minimize valve stem wear, reduce operational fiction, increase Hp, can change ratio from 1.6 to 1.7, weigh less, allowing the valves to not float in extreme high rpm operation plus look nice. You probably will need taller valve covers
Studs are converted to screw in from press in to prevent pull out, particularly with a non stock canshaft and higher rpm - and they WILL pull out. They are not bigger in diameter as both are 3/8, only the threaded portion is 7/16 though you can purchase 7/16 as well but not needed on a street engine.
These are bolt down rather then stud mounted Crane 1.7's on a late 5.0, but are similar in appearance
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
The 97-2000 (maybe even 01) Explorers have Gt40p's. Here a couple of pics on how to tell the difference between gt40's & gt40p's....Note, the P's also have a "P" on the corner of head.....Happy junk yarding!
of course, I'm probably a little late on this posting. I should read to the end of the thread before posting....LOL! Maybe the pics will help anyway....
Randy
Geez Randy, Would I have lead him astray. Hrumff !! You must have had a hard day at the beach while the rest of the USA is suffering lousy weather.:whacked: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
LOL! Heck no, Dave, you wouldn't have led him astray! I just didn't see your answer when I posted mine. Let's just say we both contributed to the answer since I added some extra visuals....LOL! Must admit I swiped them from sbftech, though. They came in handy when I was looking for my GT40P's.
Actually, the weather has been LOUSY out here!!! :( I had to wear a long sleeve shirt last night because there was such a chill in the air. :CRY: You guys just don't know how we suffer over here on the left coast!!:LOL: :cool:
:CRY:Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Up to a foot of snow predicted tomorrow and Monday and you have to wear a long sleeve shirt:CRY:
Hey I was porting out the exhaust side on my DOOE-c heads and I noticed the intake has 2 springs on it. One big normal one and a flat kinda skinny one inside it. Is that good or bad? and what does it do?
The flat skinny one is a harmonic damper. It stops the valve from finding a frequency where it vibrates like a tuning fork, and won't let the engine rev faster than that rpm.
is that good?
Yes - and necessaryQuote:
Originally Posted by zackmx